Couture Lunacy

Exploring Fashion One Thread At A Time

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Beautiful Seam Finishes and a Sheer Shirt

McCall's 6605

McCall’s 6605


I’ve wanted to get to this project ever since I finished the “muslin” using the sari silk, which you see here:


I did totally finish this shirt with a tie at the neck and buttonholes. It fits very well and will be great under a cardigan for winter. The version in red above is slightly longer and has a nice collar. My only issue with this shirt is that I want all of the seams finished so they look great from the inside too. I didn’t have much luck with the Hong Kong seams on the silk as it added too much weight.

I’ve been thinking about doing french seams on the yoke gathers but I think that also will add more bulk than I want. I’m also going to add sleeves to the red version so it will be wearable with or without a sweater. And my fabric is sheer. Not too sheer, but sheer enough to need a nice finish on the inside.

I think I’ve finally figured this out! Whew, sewing involves so much thinking! I am going to line the yoke pieces which will very nicely cover all the seams and the shirt will look fantastic inside and out. I’m going to use a thin weight interfacing for the button band and some nice antique buttons for the front. I think it will be marvelous! Here’s the fabric I plan on using:


I will, of course, be wearing a navy cami underneath this. Gorgeous, don’t you think?


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Decisions Decisions

Ok. I got the serger today. It’s cute. Smaller than I thought it would be – but cute. Now here’s the deal – for twice as much (ahem) I can get the top of the line Juki serger that does everything but brush your teeth. I am tempted.

However – and it’s a big however – I have never used a serger. So I’m not sure about this at all. I have resisted a serger until last week when DS offered it to me for Mother’s Day. Hey, it was free – what the hell. Since then I have been panicking. Every time he sees me he says “Now you take it easy with that Mom. Don’t try to do too much at once.” I could slap him. Really. I should have beat him as a child because now he has absolutely no respect for his poor old mother. He thinks I’m stooooopid.

So – rant – I can get the fancy one by sending this one back and putting the fancy one on layaway for three months. I just don’t know what to do. Do I get fancy one or keep this one? Is this one enough for a beginner? I didn’t buy the top of the line Bernina sewing machine – good god they’re only 12K – and I’m happy with my Aurora 440QE. But I don’t know —– the features of the MO 735 are more AND it has a coverstitch.

So dear reader – what would you do? Please comment and make up my mind. The first or the second?



My Mother's Day Present!

My Mother’s Day Present!




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Another Learning Curve!

My Mother's Day Present!

My Mother’s Day Present!

I am so excited! Today my Juki 644D Serger is arriving! My lovely one and only DS bought this for me for Mother’s Day.

First I have to tell you that I am a clutz. I do not have gumby fingers. I think I have a mechanical block of some kind. I am a late adapter, as my DS has said ………….

I have had numerous problems with sewing machines. I used my Grandma Nannie’s White sewing machine when I started. Mom had traded her machine for Grandma’s when Grandma moved to California. It didn’t zig or zag. It sewed. I don’t even think it had a buttonhole on it.

Then I got a Kenmore. We’ll just leave that there ………. and then when I was teaching beginning quilting, I went next door to a sewing machine shop and purchased an Elna Top 300. I think the guy saw me coming. That was the worst sewing machine I have ever tried to sew on. This sucker made me learn to quilt by hand and I didn’t even attempt to sew clothing. It would jam every time I started to sew – thread nests all over. It was horrid. I took it back to see if he could fix it and poof he didn’t. I gave it to Goodwill and I’m so sorry …………..

When we moved to Maine – I got a Bernina for my next birthday in January 2008. I made 4 quilts in rapid succession machine-quilting each one with the BSR. Yetch. Big king-size quilts don’t fit under the machine very well. After the quilts I branched back into sewing clothes.

My whole closet is full of tops and jackets I MADE. I wear them. I love them. I had made several that were longer with assymetrical hemlines. I took those a year later and made them into tee shirts. I love sewing on my Bernina.

Without a serger though, every seam takes two or three more steps. I started overcasting each piece of the pattern and then sewing it together. Sometimes I sew the seams and then overcast both together. Or I will do a Hong Kong seam or a french seam on a woven.

I have wanted a serger since 2010 when the local shop here started carrying Bernina. I checked on the price – and after I picked myself up off the floor – I started checking on the internet for an alternative. You can’t buy a new Bernina online.

I read where Juki actually makes the Bernina serger line and several sewists said that the machine they had looked just like a Juki. Juki sergers are much more affordable – voila! So I chose a Juki 644D! When DS told me I could choose my serger AND he would pay for overnight shipping – I was over the moon – or the sun or something!

It will be here today. I also ordered thread, knowing that you can’t sew without it. (tee as in hee). And luckily the serger comes with needles so I can see which ones to get. This one uses regular sewing machine needles. I also got a book, being a slow adapter – I will need all the help I can get. Just looking at the threading on the Juki website made my mind fitz. I can do this but maybe I will need to learn a lot first.

I’m looking forward to being able to do a rolled hem and also to sew and cut the seam all at once. DS bought me a dress form one Christmas (this is the best kid in the world) and now with the dress form, the Bernina and the serger – there is no stopping me. I might even start my own clothing line ……………… whoot!